Mount Xirovouni
Xerovouni is a striking limestone mountain, rising to an altitude of around 1,614 meters, that forms part of the rugged
Pindus range and dominates the horizon between
Arta,
Preveza, and
Ioannina. Its majestic terrain is carved in the signature patterns of karstic limestone, a defining element of
Epirus. Despite its raw beauty,
Xerovouni is well accessible, just a scenic drive from
Arta and not far from the
Ionian coast of
Preveza.
Somewhere here, embraced by terraced hills and scattered pines, lies Rodavgi, crowned by the Church of Agia Paraskevi. And farther along this same highland arc rests Faneromeni, a quieter village echoing its own sacred heartbeat
Rodavgi Village
Perched at an altitude of nearly 750 meters on the eastern slopes of mount
Xerovouni,
Rodavgi is a picturesque mountain village in the
Arta regional unit, home to just under 400 permanent residents but buzzing with life in the summer months. Its name literally
“rosy dawn” sets the tone for its radiant charm.
Rodavgi retains its deep-rooted Epirus traditions through well-preserved stone architecture, age-old plane trees, and the iconic
Church of Agia Paraskevi, a cultural and spiritual landmark. Visitors are drawn by the tranquil main square with its large plane trees, panoramic tavernas, and hospitable guesthouses that offer a peaceful base for hikes and excursions. The village festival on
July 26, honoring
Agia Paraskevi, is a vibrant highlight, filled with music, dancing, and heartfelt hospitality. Ideal for spring through autumn getaways,
Rodavgi attracts nature lovers, hikers, heritage tourists, and even digital nomads looking for highland serenity.
The Holy Church of Agia Paraskevi in Rodavgi
The Church of Agia Paraskevi dominates the village square with quiet majesty. Originally built in 1804 and later restored in 1835 after fire damage, this basilica-style structure is a remarkable example of Epirus ecclesiastical architecture, with its imposing bell tower, thick stone walls, and a roof made of local slate slabs blending into the mountain landscape. Legend has it that the church was erected on the remnants of an older temple, and that Agia Paraskevi herself is said to have protected the village from invaders during the Ottoman era.
The Shelter of Faneromeni
Perched high between Rodavgi and Faneromeni on the rugged slope of Xerovouni, this mountain shelter known locally as the Faneromeni Refuge feels like an eagle’s nest. With jaw-dropping views over Lake Pournari and the distant peaks of Tzoumerka it's a place where the air feels freshly minted. The shelter offers a simple barbecue pit. It’s a favorite stop for road trippers, photographers, and mountain bikers, especially during clear spring and autumn days. This is the kind of place where you light the fire and grill with the gods!
The Church of Panagia Faneromeni
On a quiet plateau lies one of Epirus' most evocative sanctuaries the Church of Panagia Faneromeni, whose name means “She Who is Revealed”. Built around 1400, as recorded on the keystone above its narrow arched entrance. Step inside, and you're instantly surrounded by walls lined entirely with hundreds of icons. Saints gaze from every direction, forming a mystical icon corridor like a procession frozen in time. It’s a pilgrimage in itself. The deep red flokati rugs soften the stone benches, offering warmth and silent reverence, while small framed offerings ("tamata") hint at miracles requested and sometimes granted. One corridor leads to a door bearing an engraved cross and the inscription "9. Π. 1912", likely the initials and date of a stonemason or benefactor, a rare personal stamp left in sacred space. Beside it, a war memorial honors the villagers who gave their lives in 20th-century conflicts, connecting national struggle with local devotion. The architecture embodies Epirus itself: resilient, unpretentious, and sacred.
The Vlach Camp
Just a few steps from Faneromeni Church lies a small but meaningful reconstruction of a traditional Vlach settlement, a reminder of the once-pervasive lifestyle that defined the highlands of Epirus. The Vlachs a proud nomadic people of the Pindos range, were expert herders, moving their flocks between mountain pastures in summer and low land shelters in winter. Their dwellings, like the ones pictured here, were made from woven reed, straw, and wooden frameworks. Inside these rounded huts, simplicity reigns: a loom for weaving, a barrel for water milk or wine, a hearth, flocats for warmth. Life here was resilient and raw. Such settlements were seasonal villages on the move, carrying oral tradition, communal codes, and an ancestral rhythm tied to livestock and land. The Vlachs were custodians of ancient pastoral wisdom. This small open-air exhibit offers a rare and respectful look into a life of constant motion, communal resilience, and profound humility.
Freedom and Memory
In Rodavgi, Faneromeni, and across the high shoulders of Xerovouni, the land breathes, remembers, and reveals. From ancient churches to Vlach straw huts and sacred icons, this corner of Epirus is a living mosaic of devotion, hardship, and harmony. And then a sudden movement: wild horses charging through the field, their hooves echoing the same pulse that once carried nomads across mountains, keepers of pace and sentinels of freedom.
With gratitude and hope for a sustainable, beautiful, exciting, and abundant future.
.jpg)
