Cave of Ai Vlasis, Panaghia of Rodia & the Ambracian Gulf
The cave of Ai Vlasis
Greece is home to an impressive 8,500 to 10,500 caves, making it one of the most cave-rich countries in the world, largely due to its karstic limestone geology and intense tectonic activity. To date, over 10,000 caves have been officially explored and recorded by the Hellenic Speleological Society, while many more are believed to remain undiscovered. The Epirus region is particularly rich in caves, hosting several hundred caves, including some of the deepest vertical shafts like Provatina Cave and Epos Cave, thanks to the limestone mountains and gorges of the Pindus range. Within Preveza, the number of caves is smaller but includes notable sites such as the Cave of Aphrodite near Parga and the Asprochaliko Rockshelter, known for its archaeological significance dating back over 100,000 years. Overall, Greece’s cave density is one of the highest globally, with approximately one cave every 12.5 km². This positions Greece as a top destination for speleology, with an unparalleled variety of caves in terms of size, depth, and historical significance.
The route
Driving from Stroggili, approaching from the west, the path to the Cave of Ai Vlasis is as untamed as the landscape itself. There are no signs to guide you, only a narrow rough road winding along the edge of the hill, caught between the rocky slopes on one side and the vast wetlands and lagoons of Ambracian Gulf on the other.
The path to the cave
The path to the Cave of Ai Vlasis revealed itself quietly. On the left side of the road stands a small chapel, from there a low stone wall begins rising at a 30° angle climbing toward the rocky cliffs above. This marks the start of a beautiful short pilgrimage path. The stone-paved trail, although narrow, is well-preserved and offers great views over the Ambracian wetlands. About halfway up, a charming wooden bridge spans a small ravine blending naturally into the landscape adding to the magic of this path. The whole ascent takes about 10-15 minutes until we reach the tiny shrine and the entrance of the cave.
The interior
The Holy Church of Panaghia of Rodia
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Just a few hundred meters east of the Cave of Ai Vlasis, nestled quietly between the olive groves and the blue waters of the Ambracian Gulf, lies one of the most privileged and spiritually powerful churches in Epirus: the Holy Church of Panaghia of Rodia. With its own small marina, gently resting on the shore, this church is ideally situated, there is truly nothing comparable we have encountered in the entire region. Built in beautiful Byzantine style, this stone church stands as a testimony of pure worship, a thank you message to the Creator for the divine beauty of this place, and our human attempt to be as close as possible to His holiness. The serene ambiance feels like a sacred embrace: the calm waters, the whispers of nature and the birds, the reflections of light and shadow, all come together to form a holy atmosphere.
Historically, Panaghia Rodia was originally built during the Byzantine era, with parts of the church possibly dating back to the 12th-13th century, though it has undergone repairs and additions over time. Its perfectly preserved bell tower, elegant arched windows, and stone-carved details reflect the deep Byzantine architectural tradition. The name "Rodia" (Ροδιά) means "pomegranate tree," symbolizing life, resurrection, and the Virgin Mary herself, a sign of the church’s deep Marian connection.
What makes this church for us unique, perhaps the most blessed and privileged church of Epirus, is its location. Standing between the Ambracian Golf and the Natura 2000 protected wetlands, surrounded by rare birds and untouched nature, it feels like a heavenly bridge between earth and sky. The quietness of the Gulf, the endless variety of natural life, and the humble beauty of the church offer a place to exalt the Creator and to experience profound peace.
The Ambracian mosaic of water, reeds, and tiny islets
The Ambracian Gulf is a living mosaic, a shimmering blend of saltwater, freshwater, reeds, and scattered tiny islets, forming one of the most important and protected wetland ecosystems in Greece, a Natura 2000 area. It is also home to dolphins, sea turtles, and over 200 bird species, with bird populations sometimes exceeding 100,000 individuals. Its unique ecosystem, shaped by the mixing of the Arachthos and Louros rivers with the salty embrace of the Ionian Sea. Looking across this vast aquatic landscape, the silence is only broken by the calls of birds. Graceful herons stand like still statues among the reeds, while flocks of cormorants slice through the air above, and elegant egrets wade carefully in the shallows, hunting for fish. Among the iconic species that call Amvrakikos home are the Dalmatian pelican (Pelecanus crispus), one of Europe's largest and most majestic birds, the Greater flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus), and the Grey heron (Ardea cinerea).
As we slowly continue our way, heading toward Vigla village, the birds seem to welcome us, their sudden take-offs and smooth landings opening a window to our senses, a window filled with harmony, variety, quietness, and peace. In this fleeting encounter, nature reveals a utopian world, untouched and balanced. It’s a scene that leaves us feeling connected and renewed, as if the entire landscape was breathing in sync with our thoughts, offering a glimpse into a simpler, purer way of being.
A journey for the soul
