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Arta, from Melates to Vourgareli

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W e programmed the autopilot of our excavated and refurbished Autotractor to carry us from Melates along the Arachthos river toward Vourgareli , in the Arta district of Epirus , Greece . The 40-kilometer alpine corridor unfolds like a natural feng shui composition of miraculous sites and revolutionary inscriptions , waterfalls, geological formations, the Tzoumerka Mountains, drifted logs and branches , stone-built villages, ancient icons of saints , monasteries, and restored churches bearing remnants of Byzantine frescoes. It is a layered landscape of deep earth history, human ingenuity, and ecological richness, underscoring the strategic importance of this mountainous passage, as my valuable friend Theraklou often argues. Holy Monstery of Panagia Melates The Monastery of Panagia Melates is dedicated to the Nativity of the Theotokos (also referred to as the Birth of the Virgin Mary ). Its stone walls forming a protective enclosure are characteristic of faith and defense. It w...